citypaper: archives

Table for None
This table gives the lie to oft-heard complaints that Ward 8 has no sit-down restaurants.

Cover Story

All that’s left of Laval’s is the sign. Red and white and direct, affixed above a strip mall along Alabama Avenue SE, it still advertises a rare promise for the neighborhood.

“LAVAL’S GOOD FOOD TO GO

AND RESTAURANT”

Below, there is only a gray, ashy shell of a storefront. Inside, workers squat over electrical wires and bang away at the floors and walls; the place smells like dust. There is nothing left of Laval Sanks’ soul-food restaurant. Nothing of the $90,000 he sunk into the place. No custom green-marble-laminate tables. No birch-wood trim. No signed African art on the walls.

Unlike on his sign, Sanks’ eat-in restaurant didn’t get second billing inside. When he opened in January 2003, his tables had top-of-the-line amenities: glass, china, silver, linen napkins. The surrounding neighborhood, he says, which includes the new Henson Ridge town-home development, embraced him. Former Ward 8 Councilmember Sandy Allen became a regular.

But fine dining wasn’t enough to buffer the effects of Hurricane Isabel, which killed the restaurant’s electricity for a week. Nor could the restaurant withstand hits to its catering contracts or a dispute with the landlord over the water bill and unexpected infrastructure costs.

“In order to survive in the restaurant business anywhere, you need more than just the neighborhood people,” Sanks says. “Southeast is Southeast. That’s all it is. There was nothing wrong with the restaurant.”... Continued

Issue of Mar. 31 - Apr. 6, 2006

News and Features

  • Table for None
    This table gives the lie to oft-heard complaints that Ward 8 has no sit-down restaurants.
    Cover Story
  • Easy Rider
    On the P17 with Metrobus' most loyal head counter
    The City
  • O for Offensive
    The Mail
  • Shitty Paper
    The Mail

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