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Our Daily Dread
District supermarkets have created a fresh hell for local bread lovers: Buy their cheap artisan knockoffs or fork over big dough for the real stuff.

Cover Story

District supermarkets have created a fresh hell for local bread lovers: Buy their cheap artisan knockoffs or fork over big dough for the real stuff.

Photographs by Darrow Montgomery

In a few weeks, Firehook Bakery and Coffeehouse will open a new store at 215 Pennsylvania Ave. SE. Capitol Hill residents will no doubt inundate the stylish outlet: In a survey last year, they named Firehook, an Alexandria-based chain, as the business they most wanted to come to their neighborhood. Now, anyone hungry for good bread will have his pick of Firehook, Bread & Chocolate, and the Fine Sweete Shoppe inside Eastern Market.

The Capitol Hill store will be Firehook's sixth in the metro area, the first in the eastern half of the District. Since 1992, Firehooks have spread out into such upscale neighborhoods as Dupont Circle and Georgetown, with competitors such as Marvelous Market and the Corner Bakery Cafe just around the corner. Wholesale bakeries Uptown Bakers, Lyon Bakery, and Bonaparte Breads have also kneaded their way into trendy restaurants, farmer's markets, and small grocery stores.

The creep of high-priced bread outlets has mirrored the segmentation of other specialty foods, such as beer and coffee. Yet things haven't quite turned out as Firehook founder Gene Gathright predicted in the Washington Post in 1992: "I'm sure it'll be just like France or Italy eventually, with a bread store on every corner. And then the prices will come down, and some will make it and some won't."... Continued

Issue of Feb. 22 - 28, 2002

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