citypaper: archives

Still Cookin'
Welcome to Franklin County, Va., land of 60,000 springs, 150 churches, one liquor store, and more moonshine stills than anywhere else in the world.

Cover Story

Silent and stealthy, the men in camouflage trudge through the Virginia woods. In a clearing ahead, some wild turkeys sprint for cover, darting helter-skelter and screeching insanely. The men pay no heed to the fleeing birds, because they're not the prey the men have in mind. The Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC) agents are hunting

for moonshiners.

About a half-mile back, on the blind curve of a back-country road, they piled out of a van and scrambled into the woods. They waded single-file through some scrub pine and jumped a creek brimming with crystal-clear mountain water—perfect for making moonshine. Then they ducked under rusted barbed wire and, after waiting for a pickup truck to pass on the horizon, they performed a wide flanking maneuver around an open meadow where cattle graze.

Now the men regroup

and stand still, and listen,

and watch.

The countryside, framed by the surrounding Blue Ridge mountains, is beyond tranquil, the occasional swatting of a cow's tail the only sign of life. It's late morning, a perfect time for hunting moonshiners: They typically arrive at a still just before dawn, and it takes a while to get things cooking. When the agents make their raid, they want to find the still hands up to their elbows in sour mash.

It's hard to believe all this fuss is over some homemade booze out in the middle of nowhere, especially since I'm nursing an epic hangover from some state-approved, store-bought stuff. I move through the brambles, regretting I surrendered to the urge. ... Continued

Issue of Apr. 11 - 17, 1997

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